Granted, any variety of the delectable concoction-which has endless modifications but always involves sweet lobster meat cradled by a grilled buttery bun-would probably gratify Brad. He says, "It's kinda like a really satisfying hot dog," or the barbecue he also craves from his native Memphis, Tennessee. "It's down-to-earth comfort food for people by the sea. You can pick it up, eat it with your hands, and you're sure to catch any cascading chunks of lobster. There's no pretense or vanity in eating a lobster roll."

In Maine, even some McDonald's serve a fast-food version in season. And almost every roadside stand and restaurant contends it has the best. But poor Brad is a cross-country trip away from verifying their claims. "It's pain and pleasure," he says of his predicament, "because I know I can't get one, but at least I can call upon my many memories."

Meanwhile, fellow Tennesseans Lucy and Ned Murray carry on a quest for the perfect specimen during their trips to Maine. "We try to make a commitment to eat lobster twice a day," Ned says. Adds Lucy, "There's no O.D.ing on lobster."

When Ned envisions his long-anticipated ultimate roll, he starts with the bun: "It's grilled perfectly-toasted, but not greasy at all, crispy on the outside but warm and soft on the inside." As essential as fresh lobster meat, these "top-loading" buns define the ideal roll. Different from regular frankfurter buns, they look like pieces of white bread folded in half to create pocketlike openings on top, and they're almost impossible to get outside New England.

But who best fills the buns with lobster? That's where the debate begins.