Start with a clean slate. Prep work is the most boring but the most important part of painting. Be sure to repair damaged trim, patch holes, seal cracks, sand rough spots, and clean surfaces. And remember—exposed wood must get a primer coat. For an easy guide to prep, follow the links at paintquality.com/diy/index.html.

Trade oil-based paints for latex. Today’s water-based or latex products have rendered oil-based paint unnecessary. Though latex requires more surface prep, it’s easy to apply, quick to dry, and cleans up with soap and water. It also resists cracking and allows moisture to escape, making it the most reliable choice for coastal environments.

Expect wear and tear. According to the experts, you’ll likely have to repaint every three years. Be sure to keep leftover paint on hand for touch-ups (don’t forget to label that can!), and always store cans in a cool, dry area. Paint deteriorates over time—especially in the heat.

Finishing Touches: Satin vs. Semi
If you’re hiring a painter or relying upon your contractor’s crew, you’ll have to specify your finish of choice up front.

Flat. Many contractors encourage customers to use flat paint with a matte finish because it hides surface imperfections. Unfortunately, it’s hard to wash or wipe down, so it’s best for low-traffic areas. Moistened rags, paper towels, and sponges will leave smudge marks on flat paints.

Lo-lustre, eggshell, and satin. With their slight sheen, these choices are more resistant to stains and easier to wash than flat finishes, making them a reliable choice for high-traffic areas such as hallways and family rooms.

Semi- and high-gloss. Known for durability, these shiny finishes work best on accent surfaces, such as trim, cabinets, and windowsills. They’re also popular in kitchens and baths. A higher gloss increases dirt-resistance but accentuates imperfections. —Allen B. Bunting