Those who venture across the Strait of Georgia to Salt Spring Island engage in a running debate: to do or not to do.
Some gallery-hop, follow a self-guided artists’ studio tour, hike, bike, or browse in coastal shops. Others do nothing at all. “Salt Spring gives you permission to be yourself,” says resident Li Read. “People get off the plane or the ferry. They look around, breathe in the air, and immediately want to stay.”
Action-seeking visitors can hike the trails of Ruckle Provincial Park, charter sailboats and rent kayaks, or bike along Beddis Beach. The less adventurous might satisfy themselves with a stroll through Martin Ebbers’ Martinus Jewelry Studio or Ulrieke Benner’s Art You Wear studio.
But the active and idle collide at Centennial Park’s open-air market every Saturday from April through October. Vendors must “make it, bake it, or grow it” to sell here. More than 100 of them peddle everything from organic produce to homemade skateboards.
Wendy Hartnett, owner of Island Gourmet Safaris, leads fascinating tours for visitors to sample the island through its food. “I try to make it a really special day,” she says. Wendy, who moved here 16 years ago from Victoria, always includes personal favorites on her safaris: Raven Street Market Café for a lunch of local greens and Gulf Island Brewery beer; North End Farm for strawberries and vine-ripened tomatoes; and David Wood’s Salt Spring Island Cheese Company farm for fresh chèvre dressed in lavender, truffles, basil, or garlic.
This island teems with lodging of all kinds, including the venerable Hastings House Country House Hotel, with 18 rooms, suites, and cottages. Or, for luxurious isolation, Clam Beach Cottage offers an ideal alternative on 5 acres overlooking Trincomali Channel. With a handsome living room, bedroom, full kitchen, and enclosed sleeping porch, the romantic bungalow accommodates only one couple at a time. “A lot of people want the privacy,” says owner Sharon Brewer. “They want the water.” And they return. “A couple from Nebraska asked their children to set up a Clam Beach Cottage fund to send them back every year,” she says.
At The Old Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast, Jim and Celeste Halicki have created another peaceful oasis. Their newly renovated 1894 inn has four guest rooms and a fairy-tale cottage set amid nearly 3 acres of rolling lawns. “We’re proud to continue the history of this place on this special island,” Jim says. While The Old Farmhouse sits across the road from Saint Mary Lake, it does not adjoin salty shores. But it’s a five-minute drive to everything here on land or water.
“Make that six minutes to the Long Harbour ferry terminal,” Jim says. Of course, most vacationers resist heading home until the last possible moment.
Salt Spring in Spring
For general island information, visit saltspringtourism.com.
Getting there: Salt Spring Island has three ferry terminals—Fulford Harbour, Vesuvius, and Long Harbour. For schedules and fares from Washington to Vancouver Island and from Vancouver Island and the B.C. mainland to Salt Spring, contact the Washington State Ferry system (206/464-6400 or wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) or the B.C. Ferry system (888/223-3779 or bcferries.com).
Time out: Clam Beach Cottage rates range from $190 to $224 U.S. per night; 866/537-5456 or clambeachcottage.com. Hastings House rates range from $255 to $785 U.S. per night; 800/661-9255 or hastingshouse.com. The Old Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast rates range from $134 to $160 U.S. per night; 250/537-4969 or oldfarmhouse.ca.
Culinary sampling: For a tour with Island Gourmet Safaris, call 250/537-4118 or visit islandgourmetsafaris.com. For fine dining, contact Hastings House at 800/661-9255 or hastingshouse.com. House Piccolo, 250/537-1844. Raven Street Market Café; 250/537-2273 or ravenstreet.ca. Salt Spring Island Cheese Company; 250/653-2300. The Artist’s Bistro; 250/537-1701. Tree House Café; 250/537-5379.
On the move: Art You Wear; 250/537-1723 or ubtextilearts.com. Blue Horse Folk Art Gallery; 250/537-0754 or bluehorse.ca. Houseboat; 250/538-1975. Martinus; 250/538-1730 or martinus-gold.com. Salt Spring Studio Tour; 250/538-0040 or saltspringstudiotour.com. Salt Spring Woodworks; 250/537-9606 or saltspringwoodworks.com. Saturday Market; saltspringmarket.com.
ALSO: See a slide show.
