Lifelike sculptures mark only the beginning of the unexpected finds here. Just 15 miles north of Seattle, Edmonds might have become just another colorless suburb, plagued with long lines of Washington state ferry traffic. After all, many of the 40,000 residents commute via the boats, which dock less than a quarter-mile down the beach from the sea-lion family.

Instead, Edmonds has perfected that sometimes-elusive formula—part tourist destination, part hometown, part whimsy, part function. With a European feel in the heart of Puget Sound, the place is so much fun to visit that Seattleites head here on weekend day trips.

Edmonds resident Rick Steves, author of Europe Through the Back Door and host of a PBS travel show bearing his name, has lived here since he was a boy. The world traveler says Edmonds “has the charm of a small European town, and a great mix of mountains, the sea, and an exciting city [Seattle] just close enough.”

Edmonds central, five blocks uphill from the waterfront, also strikes an artistic note, starting with a memorable pergola and fountain. Even the town’s sidewalks demand attention. Textured and aggregate concrete pavers spiral from the fountain, and glass and bronze inlays grace each corner. Antiques shops and eclectic boutiques add to the colorful, small-town atmosphere. “They’ve kept the turn-of-the-century buildings, so the town feels cozy,” says California visitor Jeanne Franke.

Two former teachers with creativity and flair have stocked their boutique, Sapphire, with all things European. Java Jungles takes its theme from Indonesia and carries exotic wood dining sets, teak furniture, and home accessories. The Savvy Traveler lives up to its name with a huge selection of guides and maps, ultra-packable clothes, and smart luggage and backpacks.

Dining in Edmonds spans the globe, too. Menus offer everything from Pacific Northwest specialties to ethnic cuisine to wheat-free fare. Popular eateries include Arnies, on the waterfront, or Girardi’s Osteria Italiana. Especially during the town’s flower-filled spring, locals like to assemble picnics with selections from Olives Café & Wine Bar and Arista Wine Cellars.

If it’s breakfast time, or if a cookie sounds like the perfect afternoon pick-me-up, there’s Edmonds Bakery. It, too, offers artistry on display: The antique or character cookie jars that decorate the shelves range from Betty Boop and Elvis to toy trains and pink caddies. Bakery owner Ken Bellingham’s wife and children started amassing the pieces innocently enough in 1995, and the collection now tops 550.

Back at the waterfront, on the mile-long stretch of Olympic Beach and Brackett’s Landing, more than a dozen ocean-inspired works of art join the sculpted sea lions. In "Seeing Whales", a cast-aluminum family looks toward Puget Sound. "Beach Launch" depicts a trio of Huck Finn–like kids boarding a dinghy, frozen in time as they push off for salty adventures. Looking as though they’ve just washed ashore, weathered brass sea stars, kelp, snails, and shells embed the concrete walkways.

But what about those flowers I came to see? They’re the living art here, with the town awash in blooms from spring until early autumn. Luscious baskets hang from lampposts, blossoms spill from pots in front of every store, and generous gardens mark the four corners of most intersections. A group called Edmonds in Bloom organizes festivals, garden competitions, and tours from April through July. So, come for the flowers—but don’t miss those sea lions, or the rest of the town’s artistic bounty.

Flower Power
For more on Edmonds, contact the Greater Edmonds Chamber of Commerce at 425/670-1496 or edmondswa.com. For a brochure on public art, call the Edmonds Arts Commission at 425/771-0228 or visit ci.edmonds.wa.us. For an overnight visit, good choices include the Edmonds Harbor Inn (800/441-8033 or nwcountryinns.com/edmonds) or The Inn at Third & Dayton (800/823-1466 or innonthird.com).

ALSO: See a slide show.