In oceanside Ogunquit, signs of the season are subtle. A shopkeeper hanging an evergreen wreath on her door. Fresh snow flocking the sidewalks. Strings of lights suspended along the front porch of a clapboard inn.
This town shuns the in-your-face commercialism of most big-city malls. "People shopping for the holidays often dread itvisitors here don't," says Heather Battagliese, owner of Calluna, a flower shop and gift store. "It's a different experience: relaxed, not rushed."
Even in summer, when thousands travel to this part of southern Maine for its exceptional dining, historic lodging, and pristine shore, the pace seems slow. "And in winter there aren't huge crowds," says Allyson Cavaretta of The Meadowmere Resort, "so we get to share a little bit more of the inside of Ogunquit."
During the second weekend in December, the town hosts a Christmas by the Sea celebration. Luminarias line the streets. Festivities include a parade, concert, tree lighting, ornament making, bonfire, and caroling. Families warm themselves with cider or pumpkin-spice lattes.
Numerous boutiques and galleries make browsing and buying easy. You'll find watercolors for art-loving friends at Sea Bell Gallery and nautical keepsakes at Blacksmith's Antiques. Several shops specialize in fine foods, clothing, or collectibles. For children, there's Animal Instinct, an old-fashioned toy store with stuffed lobsters and whales.
"When you run a small business, you have to go out of your way to be attentive," says Animal Instinct owner Jonathan Seckofsky. Fellow shopkeepers seem to agree. Patrons don't have to wait for service. Polite advice is offered, along with hummed strains of "Jingle Bell Rock."
After a day of shopping for others, give yourself a gift. Take a stroll along strikingly scenic Marginal Way. The paved footpath begins (or ends) in a corner of Oarweed Cove near the harbor. It winds 1¼ miles past shaded alcoves, memorial benches, and ocean panoramas.
Afterward, pamper yourself with a massage at Your Body Works, followed by dinner at MC Perkins Cove. Enjoy the grand shellfish "tower" with oysters, littleneck clams, jumbo shrimp, tuna sashimi, and Maine lobster. Pick a fine wine from the restaurant's extensive cellar. There, sitting by the window, watching as darkness settles over the ocean, you can't help but think: This is how holiday shopping should be.
Village Attractions
For general info, visit ogunquit.org.
Lodging: Anchorage by the Sea (winter rates $69$279); 207/646-9384 or anchoragebythesea.com. The Meadowmere Resort (winter rates $65$180); 800/633-8718 or meadowmere.com.
Dining: Bintliff's Restaurant; 207/646-3111 or bintliffsogunquit.com. Bread and Roses Bakery; 207/646-4227. MC Perkins Cove; 207/646-6263. Village Food Market; 207/646-2122 or villagefoodmarket.com.
Shopping: Blacksmith's Antiques Mall; 207/646-9643. Books Ink; 207/361-2602 or booksink.com. Calluna; 207/641-0867 or callunafineflowers.com. Harbor Candy Shop; 800/331-5856 or harborcandy.com. Revelations; 207/646-4141. Sea Bell Gallery; 207/646-5411. Your Body Works; 207/646-1322.
ALSO: Ogunquit, Maine, Shopping Guide