2008 So You Want to Live on the Coast Special Section

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A Coastal Gem, Unveiled
With the opening of this historic ranch land, the public gets a rare glimpse of an unspoiled stretch of California coastline.
(Photo: David Sanger)
Text by Susan C. Kim

The newest public jewel on California’s northern coast is a 2-mile stretch of cliffs overlooking exploding waves, dramatic peninsulas, caves, and, oddly enough, rows of English peas. For almost a century, this Mendocino County land has been enjoyed almost exclusively by the Stornettas, one of the region’s oldest farming families. The Nature Conservancy bought the property in 2004 and quietly opened it to the public in 2005. But this is no ordinary park. Stornetta Public Lands, as it’s now called, reflects a new model for land preservation: a blend of active agriculture, protected habitat, and public access.

“We have a deep love for this land,” says Larry Stornetta, who grew up with his brother, Charles, collecting abalone off the rugged shores, romping on grassy dunes, and tending fava beans in the fields. Since 1917, when Larry’s grandfather purchased the seaside property, the Stornettas have earned a reputation as gentle stewards of the land. “We practiced private conservation for years,” Larry says. “We took care of the land, and you could say the land took care of us.”

The Garcia River, which skips through the property toward the edge of the continent, serves as a recovery area for threatened coho salmon and other endangered species. Ospreys and falcons soar over protected estuaries.

Larry and Charles retained title to 579 acres of the ancestral ranch, which remains closed to the public. They have continued a cow-calf operation and a bean and pea farm, with a conservation easement ensuring that most of the property will not be developed. The other 1,132 acres are open for visitors to explore and enjoy during daylight hours. The rugged coastline provides hikers and photographers with stunning headlands, sea stacks, blowholes, and a picture-perfect waterfall that plunges 50 feet into the Pacific. A planned link in the 1,200-mile California Coastal Trail, designed to run from Oregon to Mexico, would connect Manchester State Beach to the north of Stornetta with lands south of the Point Arena Lighthouse.

Visitors will find no facilities, parking lots, marked trails, maps, or staff. It’s raw, open land. If you go, exercise caution; the high cliffs are windy and tides can be treacherous. And remember the wish of the third-generation rancher who preserved this property: “I hope the public takes care of this land, that they appreciate its beauty, and that it is never abused or depleted.”

For more information, visit blm.gov/ca/ukiah.

Stay in Mendocino
A day of coastal exploration calls for a warm dinner and a soft pillow. You’re in luck. Mendocino County is known for cozy, oceanview inns that also serve some of the most delicious food around.

MacCallum House Inn & Restaurant
When the fog rolls in, there’s no better seat than next to a fire blazing in a riverstone fireplace, where you can enjoy Chef Alan Kantor’s white clam gnocchi gratin. Why not stay the night? Choose from six lavishly furnished rooms in the newly upgraded main house, seven cottages with woodstoves and private decks, or six rooms with redwood-beam ceilings in the renovated barn. Call 800/609-0492 or visit maccallumhouse.com.

Stevenswood Spa Resort
Tucked away in the woods, the lodge offers 10 spacious rooms with vaulted ceilings, Tempur-Pedic beds, and wood-burning fireplaces. Hot-from-the-oven scones and French-press coffee help ease the way into morning. Call 800/421-2810 or visit stevenswood.com.

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California's Coastal Parks