Tarpon Lodge offers waterside accomodations in the original 1926 inn and auxillary buildings, plus fishing and boating day trips with osprey, egret, and dolphin sightings; 239/283-3999.
Eat: The Tarpon serves always fresh (never frozen!) fish and outstanding blue crab-and-roasted corn chowder. Bert's Bar & Grill in Matlacha, an islet towards the mainland, features tasty seafood, live music, and dockside dining.
Do: Hike the Calusa Heritage Trail that winds among ancient shell mounds and the remnants of an impressive cross-island canal built by the Calusa Indians. Or, rent beach cruisers from Pine Island Cycles; 239/560-0320; or vessels from Gulf Coast Kayak to paddle the area's placid inlets.