The world is quieter and moves more slowly when you are floating in turquoise water 10 feet beneath a giant green sea turtle. The turtle looks at a spot somewhere beyond me, with eyes as calm and wise as an old storyteller. I rise to the surface to find Bertram Almeida, my Hawaiian guide, treading water while waiting for me.
"Let's do something Hawaiian," Almeida says. My underwater experience swimming with the sea turtle in her coral reef home feels relatively Hawaiian to me, but I find myself following him to shore, anxious for more.