On my second day I take a helicopter tour over the island, the only way to see much of the rugged interior landscape and the road-free Napali Coast. The flight leaves at 8 a.m. from Lihue. Shortly after we rise from the pad, Jimmy, the helicopter pilot, points out the place where the scientists and kids first saw dinosaurs in Jurassic Park
—a big meadow above the farmlands. Then he takes us over the beach where Harrison Ford fled from pirates in Six Days Seven Nights
We head straight toward towering green walls, the ramparts of this island that seems to be thrusting itself out of the sea. Razor-sharp ridges define the mountainsides like fins. Between them, the shadowy vertical valleys are streaked with white waterfalls. Cascades plummet into perfect pools that have likely never seen a human, their perches having rendered them unreachable.