Beyond the casinos and resort-studded beaches, a rainbow of possibilities beckons.
Old San Juan's quirky Gallery Inn, a cluster of buildings dating from the 18th century, is almost as colorful as the flock of avian inhabitants that perch and chatter on its overgrown walls.
Old San Juan, the historic section of Puerto Rico's capital city, is brimming with colorful signage. Local activist Ricardo Alegría is credited with saving the area's Spanish Colonial architecture from demolition.
The 500-year-old cobblestone streets of Old San Juan are chockablock with colorful examples of Spanish Colonial architecture—from
the trademark tile roofs and ornate balconies to the heavy wooden doors guarding secret courtyards. Calle San Francisco, lined
with antiques shops and cafes, is a particularly beautiful street; for a stunning view of the sea, walk to the corner of Calle
San Justo and Calle Norzagaray.
Left: Cafícultura, a charming spot to take five in Old San Juan
In the surfer haven of Rincón, on Puerto Rico's western coast, the Horned Dorset Primavera's Restaurant Aaron serves French
cuisine with a Caribbean flair, in a lavishly painted dining room. In Old San Juan, head to Calle Fortaleza, the de facto
restaurant row, for late-night spots specializing in Spanish-Caribbean fusion food.
Left: Restaurant Aaron at the Horned Dorset Primavera in Rincón
The docks near the San Juan Gates in Old San Juan recall an old-time fishing hangout. You can see the picturesque El Morro
fort in the distance as you chat with friendly fishermen bringing in their catch. The people-watching is fabulous no mater
where you go, especially among the hipsters set behind the island's bustling restaurants and shops.
Left: A fisherman near El Morro, Old San Juan's 500-year-old fort
Rooms and common areas at the Gallery Inn exude old-world patina, from Spanish tiles and peeling walls to paintings and pottery made by both the owners and their guests.
Whether you're on the Atlantic or the Caribbean side of Puerto Rico, the water views are always inspiring. The surfing town
of Rincón, two hours west of San Juan, is famous for its spectacular sunsets and has been drawing surfers since it hosted
the World Surfing Championships in 1968.
Left: A fisherman casts his net on the western tip of the island, near Rincón.
Nothing beats mornings in Puerto Rico, where the sunrises are always staggering and church bells ring in every town, from
metropolitan San Juan to the tiniest beachside hamlets. Breakfast is always a treat, given the island's abundant fresh fruit
and famous locally grown coffee.
Left: Fresh fruit and yogurt at the Horned Dorset Primavera
Whether your tipple of choice is a cocktail or coffee, you can't go wrong in Puerto Rico's countless bars, quirky cafes, and
coffee shops. As early as 3:00 in the afternoon, expect to see both locals and tourists stopping everything for a social
Left: Cocktails and Spanish tapas at El Picoteo in Old San Juan
The upscale seafood restaurant Perla is located in the whimsically shell-shaped newly reopened La Concha hotel in Condado, a district of San Juan along the Atlantic Coast. The 1950s folly survived numerous calls to tear it down and was restored by a local architect.
Spectacular views surround the restored—and still working—1882 Faro de los Morillos de Cabo Rojo, which guides ships through the passage where the Caribbean sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. An easy 10-minute hike gets you to the lighthouse, which stands at the top of a 200-foot limestone cliffs and has views of the stunning blue Caribbean. Stop off at nearby La Playuela Beach, a sandy cove in a nature preserve. For more information call 939/630-5180.
Fly to San Juan International Airport—there is direct service from several U.S. cities—and rent a car in San Juan to get to
areas outside the city. (Avoid driving in Old San Juan.)
Left: A dog peeks out of his streetside living room.
Where to stay In Old San Juan: The Gallery Inn (rates from $160); 787/722-1808 or thegalleryinn.com. El Convento (rates from $295); 800/468-2779 or elconvento.com. In Rincón: The Horned Dorset Primavera (rates from $596); 787/823-4030 or horneddorset.com.
Left: Sunrise at the Horned Dorset Primavera in Rincón
Caficultura, Old San Juan; 787/723-7731. The Gallery Inn (candlelit dinners in the open-air basement Friday nights only, reservations required), Old San Juan; 787/722-1808. Restaurant Aaron at the Horned Dorset Primavera, Rincón; 787/823-4030. Perla at La Concha hotel; 787/977-3285.
Left: Coffee and homemade guava cookies at Cafícultura
El Batey Bar in Old San Juan features dim lighting and graffiti-covered walls; 101 Cristo (no phone). El Picoteo at El Convento serves festive cocktails and tapas; 787/723-9020 or elconvento.com. In Rincón, go to Banana Dang for a java fix; 787/823-0963 or bananadang.com. Sip cocktails and eat sushi with surfers at the Pool Bar; 787/823-8135.
Left: Grab a snack at the Pool Bar in Rincón, founded by Yuri Palchevsky (pictured) and Allison West.
Old San Juan is a shopper’s paradise. Try Concalma (207 Calle San Francisco; 787/729-0800) for handbags and totes manufactured by a women’s cooperative in the mountains of
Puerto Rico; El Alcazar (103 Calle San José; 787/723-1229) for colorful art, furniture, and antiques; Frankys (363 Calle San Francisco; 787/722-6691)
for accessories from the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s; and Cappalli Store (206 Calle O’Donnell; 787/289-6565) for fashion designs
by Lisa Cappalli, K. Jacques sandals, and other chic accessories.
Left: Zaidy Santoni models a funky tote at Concalma