Stay: Visit Hotel Kura Hulanda Spa & Casino, which was actually once a slum. Now, the drastically renovated hotel features 80 rooms, each uniquely different; 877/264-3106.
Eat: Go global at the open-air Old Market, where vendors grill chicken, fish, or even goat for lunch. Seating is communal, so picnic tables are likely to be shared by government employees, cab drivers, and tourists.
Do: Head to historic downtown where boutiques line the streets selling duty-free diamonds, designer clothes, and Dutch goods.